Видео

Could be the bottom of the bar that separates the quarter light has completely rotted away. They usually are fairly rotten. Normally if the scrubber seal and upper seal are good they hold the glass pretty tight. I've also seen the piece that clamps the glass to the window regulator rot away.

@@TheTinski07 Thanks. The van has little rust in general so don't think it's that. Gonna have to take door card off and investigate

I have digital temperature gauges so I can see the temperature on the cylinder heads very accurately. Whenever I come to a stop (and cooling water supply slows) the temps will spike by a few degrees so I usually wait until its dropped back to about 1 degree below below operating temperature. Can be a few minutes after a long run or maybe a minute after short lower rpm hops. That's what I do at least. I have to start and stop numerous times per day

Coventry motors gearbox

Ultimate engineering in the UK produce the sump adapter and oil pick up adapter. The pick up tube required is from an audi or passat with a longitudinal engine configuration. I bought that separately but Tim Shettle at ultimate engineering might have those too.

I ran it with 4.5ltrs as standard. Ultimate engineering's page had a photo of a cut sump showing it with the adapter and pick up. Best to look at that if you were interested to see how close to the pan base it sits. I did use the baffle type sump gasket and I'd have no concerns with it really.

I'm sure it'll run and smoke like the clappers 🤣 I moved on from these but considering how knackered that one was it ran sweet

It's steam. They are cooled using heat exchangers which mean they cool the coolant using sea water which is then injected into the exhaust and exits through there. You get a little steam especially in cooler weather

@@TheTinski07 how cold was it? Most marine engines are cooled like that, but most boats don't "steam" like that once at op temp.

@ralph9987 She steams very little compared to a lot of them. This was early season so water temp about 10c and air about the same. She runs about 74c so you have relatively cool water being dumped into a fairly warm exhaust so there will be steam especially in cold weather

@@TheTinski07 I guess you will know for sure in summer. GL.

@@ralph9987She has four full seasons done now with these engines. They've been fantastic

Reversed but very light and easy to get used to

Lancing marine and ASAP supplies in the UK

Boat is a 12meter aquastar semi displacement. 9 tons unladen. Mine were Daf 45/55 truck engines with VE pumps. Industrial pumps will work fine. Industrial engines can have a ring ridge if run at set RPMs long term. Doubt it's much of an issue unless high hour engines

They are at a much steeper angle but are still the original CVs and have done 20k miles like this. No problems or signs of wear yet

I have an AHU in my own van. Great engine and a bit easier to wire up. Mine was a 1.9DG so I had to make all the mounts etc and used a flipped Audi gearbox

Most of my install was straight forward (including using my existing 5 speed gearbox, a Corrado flywheel, and latter water boxer clutch disk) but I ended up using the original JX turbo and exhaust manifold so I could keep my relatively new stainless exhaust.. The turbo failed soon after and that started a series of issues I have had with the install. The biggest problem I have had has been with oil pumps and getting enough pressure and flow to supply the turbo, bearings and also the lifters. Long story in short, after a couple of engine and turbo fails I now have a fully rebuilt engine with the physically larger VW oil pump and that seems to have solved things. The van now runs great.

Your not wrong. They should be trailered from the dealership when you buy it straight to proper rust proofing. We bought this one a few years but they are numbered. The lack of drain holes in the chassis is ridiculous and one thing the l200 had over them

Lancing marine and ASAP supplies in the UK

@@TheTinski07 Is the cost of the conversion worth the money? What do you think you spent (not including your personal time) in parts to marinize the 5.9?

@xuv5607 It was definitely worth it. I did it before brexit so avoided duty and had a reasonable exchange rate. I spent 5k per engine but I had my own exhaust elbows, gearboxes and fabricated the engine mounts and a lot of the pipe work. It would cost more if you buy more of the kit. They're on there 4th season now and have been great

Hi yes you need a diesel bellhousing and output shaft. They only seem to be available second hand and a bit hard to come by. I would try Peter Carr in Shannon

Unfortunately I don't get subscribers without making videos lol. I will be making more. I doing due diligence and getting things in place. One of which is an entire new building including a carlift and I have projects waiting to move in but it all takes time and money.

@@TheTinski07 yep ! i know the feeling! Good Luck!

She's sweet as. It was a poor surface on the shaft coupling. I cleaned it up for that season and had both faces machined the following Winter.

@@TheTinski07 you need more videos of running that beautiful boat!! There aren't enough of them out there!!

Hi. If you could contact me through my Facebook business page we can have a chat about it.

I managed for years with a 50ltr compressor that was about 6cfm. Not ideal but I did a hell of a lot with. I've finally upgraded to a 200ltr 3hp 16cfm which is great but you'll do no problem with a smaller one.

@@TheTinski07 appreciate the reply!!!

We have MOTs here, known as NCT on private cars and CRVT on vans and commercial vehicles which includes campers. 30yrs is vintage and 40years is test exempt. Engine swaps have to be signed off by a Main dealer. This is just a quick look to prove its actually been changed then the forms are signed and send off to change it on the register. The insurers will ask for an engineers report as well. Insurance is a real pain in the ass here and they really don't like any sort of modifications but it is a lot easier on a vintage vehicle

It would be hard to argue I hate it now as there hasn't been a day since where there isn't a T25 or 4 off them waiting for me to get things done out there. Follow the Instagram page for more regular stuff if your interested

@@TheTinski07 im already on it. Thanks! But i hope to see more videos in the future. 🙂. In my line of work. There are things i hate with a passion. I just do it as fast as i can so i can get to the good enjoyable parts.

I still use flux core but keep upgrading the welders. I have no real experience with gas mig because of the issues with bottle hire etc. Also because its mostly 1second spot welds it seems odd to be using 3 seconds of gas per spot. I may be converted yet though. As for the acid I've been using a few different ones. The current one is a glass bottle by rustins. It does absolutely nothing of there is any depth of rust tho. I've just started using a 2k epoxy primer that comes with a epoxy hardener (not isocyanate) and really impressed with it for bare metal. I'll get you a name. For general repairs I just use cellulose

@@TheTinski07 i live across the Atlantic and do not have your pt of references but hopefully i can google its equivalent here. Thank You!

Lol. Glad it's a help. Yea most of the subscribers aren't even for T25 content but that's what I'll mainly be doing and probably some other vintage vws. I do have a full build of my own coming this year and I will be filming that. 👍

Hi. The adapter plate is available from Ultimate engineering in the UK. His name is Tim Shettle and he is on many forums. You have to remove 1.5cm from the front of the gearbox to allow fir the adapter thickness. I'd you take it to an engineering shop then you will have to dismantle the gearbox for them to mount it in their machine which is a lot of extra work. There is no welding involved

@@TheTinski07 It seems your diesel engine is tilted but my 1.8t gasoline engine will be straight vertikal position. Is it gearbox bolt circle pattern same those both engines. Thanks,i will send message to ultimate engineer.

@petri heinonen yes he also sells one for the engine to stay upright. The plate is first bolted to the engine and then the gearbox is bolted to the plate with separate bolts

@@TheTinski07 That's great, I send message allready. Thanks again, I hope to have that plate. I have so much else to do with the car, brakes, elecktriks, steering, air ride etc. All helping solution is welcome. Kind regards PETRI HEINONEN

@petri heinonen Your welcome. I do a lot of work on them so any questions feel free to ask. Good luck with your project .

I think I bought one from ASAP supplies and one from lancing marine. Pretty sure it was just cellulose thinner for the hammerite sprayed at low pressure

That was a Cummins 6bt turbo I put on it. The turbo on it when I got it was well and truly rotten. Cracking Head bolts were the only problem that engine gave me.

Looks just like the Sabre exhaust housing. Never seen a 6BT marine engine with a dry exhaust housing, all the ones Ive rebuilt have all been watercooled. Good upgrade regardless. Way better than the Holset 3LD they came with. Suffered a few broken headbolts but not too many. Looked at changing to studs esp on the 250Hp Turbo Plus engines.

@@matui6983 It was off the Cummins powered DAF 55. I put John Deere head bolts in that in the end because the D series ones were extortionate.

Sweet. The broken ones I had to deal with got replaced by studs. But like the idea of the Deere bolts. Everything for these engines costs a lot nowadays. Esp down here.

It doesn't seem to be the case. A lot of people are even using the the original oil return which is higher up but then it is at least above the oil level in the sump. The oil return low in the sump isn't exactly optimum either but it seems vw were happy with it. I would still rather return to the sump than the block.